En blogg från Högskolan i Borås
Här bloggar Högskolan i Borås studenter från världens alla hörn. Några är utbytesstudenter, några göra sina uppsatser och ex-jobb och några gör praktik utomlands. Följ dem under deras resor och läs om deras möten med nya människor och nya kulturer.

2014-06-24

From pattern to ready made garment

Today I will show you how this Jersey factory works! As I said before, every factory has its own speciality.



Let us start with pattern making in this room, for today children apparels.



When they’re done with the pattern, they print it out with this big printing machine.




Afterwards the pattern goes to this room where they make proto-samples for customers. They both cut and sew in this room. The customer will get their first sample where they can put comments about the fitting and shape like; 
The armhole is too big, the sleeve length is too short, sleeve cuffs are too thick etc. To achieve the request and perfect fitting.



On this floor they also measure fabrics weight, check colors hue and of course they are washing garments to see how well they can handle the temperature and if there will be any color bleeding on other materials. They want to ensure that the quality of the fabric is good, we call it a “Washing resistance ability test” 



When the customer approves the proto-sample the factory starts to spread the fabric on the table in layers, how many layers depends on how manny pieces they will produce and how many pieces/size. 



Then they cut it! In this case they cut out pieces for a pair of sweatpants using a mechanical cutting machine. All data comes from the pattern making department, upstairs, to this machine. In this case it takes 20 minutes to cut this order, manually it takes around 1,5 h. What you might not know is that the machine will cut much finer curves if it’s on lower speed than high.




This machine has a vacuum function. It makes it much easier for the machine to cut it if it’s really hard packed. Videos will come later..



When it comes to striped fabric they often do it in this way. Cut shorter lengths according to the size of the garments pattern. In this way it’s more manageable for them to fit the colored stripes on each other, because jersey fabric moves easily.



After cutting they’ll mark the pieces by a “made-up-number”, In this case it’s a shirt and all the pieces will wear the number ”23” as an example.
Then they’ll bundle the pieces together according to what kind of piece it is, like;
(sleeve) small
(collar) small
(sleeve) medium
(collar) medium etc…



Then it’s time for SEWING! (it’s really noisy down here)



In this room they are checking all the garments. They are cutting leftover threads, iron them, fold them, place hang tags, put them in plastic cases, then sort them in boxes according to customers orders.



These small labels belongs to a system they use and I think it’s fun to be aware of these small things that you might not think of as important. 

"Control 1” describes the worker who made ​​the check-up on this garment.
”TAMIR” means, there is a fixable mistake on this garment
”DEFOLU” means, there is an unfixable mistake on this garment.
It put preassure on the controller, which is good. because if there is many repeatable mistakes from the same controller, you can easily take contact with this controller and find out the reason.




Thanks for stopping by!

2014-06-15

Heaven of prints


(j.lu-Products in action!)
This Friday we had a meeting with customers inside an outstanding print factory. And to be clear, this company is something extraordinary. The meeting starts with an introduction about the company and what they can offer us as customers. They have around 6000 different print designs to choose between. All artwork are strictly original and they are designed by their own design team or independent design studios. They are helping brands to keep ahead of trends and of course they will give some inspiration. 
Our client is going through manny of the printed samples, which is a lot I must say but it has to be done. All samples has a shape of a dress or some kind of top , as the pic above. (which is totally awesome, cause you’ll see the printed fabric in a different way. it helps you a lot.) Some of the prints can only go through digital printing and other has to be Rotary screen printed. But if you want to rotary screen print an item which hanging as a digital print, you can, but you can not do vice versa. But you have to really consider the prices, cause digital printing, in this case, is 40 % more expensive than the other choice. This is how this factory works. Factory’s they differ quite a lot in this business, you have to ask so you know what your dealing with during the process. 
In this case our client pay by full price to the factory which stands for cutting and sewing. It means that the “cutting and sewing place” pays for the printed fabric that we are choosing in this room. The “cutting and sewing place” is the last to give the final price to j.lu-Products and we will give our final price to our client. If the client will buy the fabric bye themselves it could be risky. If something bad happened to the fabric, the factory’s often blame each others.
When she picked out which samples she wants, the print factory checks if there are samples that have been used by others. Our klient checks those samples and sees if it’s just a stripe or if it’s a actual pattern. If it’s something regular, she keeps it. If not, she choose not to keep it. Everything depends on what kind of brand that used it. If they will sell it in the same area etc.
Here you’ve got a pic of samples from ground materials. Our client are searching prints and fabrics for more than one collection so that’s why we’re in this jungle! They want different kind of materials to different kind of clothes. I’m not sure if they know what kind of material they actually want for the different collections they have in mind. some of the prints and ground material will be used and others will not. It’s just samples so they decide when they know what they want. 
Hope you enjoyed! 

2014-06-11

Increasing my aces


Yesterday, our freelancer-quality-controller and I went to a factory that produced knitted apparel for us. It’s the first time, during this trip, that I was going all alone with a person who only speaks turkish. I can tell you, that is the most effective way to learn a language. You have to communicate in a simple way with your body language, and of course, the dictionary will become your best friend. Put on a smile and you’re halfway!


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During the meeting we talked about the knitted apparel and their problems. How they solved the problems, new dates of delivery and so on. Luckily there were problems that could be fixed very fast. In this business you can not expect that one day will be like the other and that everything will go as you planned. You have to be flexible, a fast-thinker and a fast-solver. I can tell you that these three qualities are not really my aces. So I’m very grateful that I have this opportunity to get involved in these situations because this is something that you must experience.
After the meeting I asked if they could show me the knitting machines and they did it with joy! 


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It’s a small factory but they know what they’re doing! Here is the knitting machines. They knit body (as back and front), sleeves and collar. 


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So, this is a closer view of the machine. If you have been doing hand-knitting before you know how to hold the sticks. It’s the same procedure with these two blocks with “needles” on both sides.


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When they have produced all the pieces they have to join them. They are using this kind of machine, “The linking machine”. I have never seen this type of machine before, first time for everything, right! I have to say; it’s so got damn beautiful!


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Ok, You see there is a lot of pointed “needles” in a circle, They have to put one “needle” in every single loop. Otherwise the whole thread will go. And they are doing this on the two pieces that will join each other. The circular point ring will rotate as the pedal is pressed down.


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Now all pieces turned into a garment, in this case a pull-over. They have to iron and steam it to get it in great shape. They use needles as markers on the “steam-table” so they keep the measure according to customers request.

This is all for tonight guys!

As I said, pls ask if any questions arise

2014-06-10

Avsked av Huelva...

Nu befinner vi oss i Barcelona där vi har valt att spendera vår sista vecka i Spanien innan vi åker hem till Sverige igen.
Mycket har hänt det senaste månaderna, tiden bara rinner iväg.
Vi har avklarat alla våra kurser och blivit utnämnda till stjärnstudenter för att vi är så tysta, lyssnar och för anteckningar. Det har verkligen inte varit en nackdel att vara svensk student i spanien då samtliga lärare haft bra erfarenheter av tidigare svenska studenter och ofta berömt oss för vårt uppförande. "the swedes" är ett uttryck som ofta har hörts i klassrummet och de få gånger någon av oss inte är närvarande har läraren undrat var den fjärde svensken är.

Samtidigt som vi har haft massor av hemläxor och tentamensplugg har vi ändå hunnit med att resa och göra olika utflykter. Vi har varit i Ibiza, Marocko och Portugal samt besökt olika spanska städer. Vi har även lärt känna många nya vänner från olika delar av världen det var därför svårt att ta avsked av alla när vi lämnade Huelva för fyra dagar sedan. Det känns som ett hål i våra hjärtan, vi älskar verkligen Huelva och hade vi haft möjligheten hade vi gärna stannat kvar längre. Denna terminen har varit väldigt lärorik och vi har tagit del av många olika kulturer. Trots motgångarna i början gällande registreringen har skolan visat prov på att de vet vad de håller på med. Vi har insett att Sverige och Spanien är väldigt olika, saker som en Sverige sker direkt tar oftast väldigt lång tid här. Vi har lärt oss att ta dagen som den kommer och lever numera efter mottot "Mañana, Mañana".








Vi rekommenderar andra studenter om det finns möjlighet att studera en termin utomlands att ta chansen. Det är verkligen en upplevelse som du aldrig kommer att glömma!

Har ni några frågor gällande vår termin i Huelva får ni jätte gärna kontakta oss:

e.klofver@gmail.com
johansson.amandac@gmail.com
theresejohansson60@hotmail.com
kikuce_3@hotmail.com

2014-06-05

Lissabon 4/6 2014

Då var vi i full gång med tentaperioden. Idag hade vi vår första riktiga sluttenta, Corporate Finance var först ut. Själva tentaprocessen var minst sagt en upplevelse i sig. Portugiserna har som sagt inte riktigt samma uppfattning om tid som vi har. Tio minuter innan starttid för tentan fick vi reda på att vi behövde köpa våra egna svarsblad för tentan (som senare kom att visa sig inte behövdes..). Eller tio minuter från den egentliga starttiden. Det visade sig att kvinnan som skulle övervaka tentan var en kvart sen, helt enligt portugisisk princip. När hon senare delade ut tentan så satt alla elever fortfarande och pratade trots att det var fritt fram att börja när man fått den utdelad. Snacket tog väl inte riktigt slut någon gång under den en timma långa (korta) tentan, behöver knappast nämna att detta aldrig skulle ske hemma i Borås. Men ja, det är väl lite mer avslappnad attityd till det hela här. Avslutningsvis om första tentan, vi har goda förhoppningar om att vi ska ha klarat den. Håller alla tummar.


Efter tentan i eftermiddags kände vi att vi var värda en liten pluggpaus. Vi har trots allt pluggat i stort sett konstant under tio dagar, och imorgon ska vi på't igen. Det är trots allt minst tre tentor kvar. Pluggpausen idag bestod för det första av en go-fika vid en utav de fina utsiktsplatserna och för det andra av ytterst njutbar solnedgång nere vid floden. Det var så vackert att det nästa gjorde lite ont i oss att veta att vi endast har två (Malin) respektive tre (Erica) veckor kvar här. Vi får allt se till att göra lite fler pluggpauser =)


Just det, i helgen hade vi en riktigt härlig pluggpaus som spenderades på stranden tillsammans med några vänner från Tyskland och Indien. Vi hann med ett par badomgångar i det minst sagt avsvalkande vattnet, det var ett smärre under att vi ens doppade oss. Men oj vad härligt det är att ha nära till en så vacker strand! Det var dock ganska blåsigt så vi fick en gratis peeling på köpet. I helgen var vi också på ett Rooftop Party tillsammans med massa andra studenter, det blev en mycket rolig kväll.

Igår var det dags för vår granne Stephan att åka hem. I lördags var vi på ett restaurangbesök tillsammans, mycket trevlig. Han har kanske inte förekommit så frekvent här på bloggen, men vi har verkligen uppskattat hans sällskap. Så kändes lite sorgligt att säga hejdå. Dock får vi nog börja vänja oss vid att säga just hejdå. Stephan var väldigt rar och gav oss Mozartkulor, väldigt uppskattat så här i pluggtider.





















Nu är det alldeles snart dags att slockna för idag. Vi sitter dock och väntar på ett besked från Foundations of Law, knappt inga naglar kvar.. Han lovade oss att han skulle skicka ut resultatet sent idag... Sent på portugisisk tid är svårtolkat, kanske före midnatt, fast vid tre-tiden i natt känns mer troligt.


Ciaaaaaao!

//Malin & Erica

2014-06-04

Exploring textile business in Istanbul





Hey guys!

Three months of experience in textile production developments 

Finally, I have my own desk at the head office of j.lu-Products. It’s a agent-company that works between factories and, generally, swedish brands in apparel-production. This week has been a lot of organizing. Making plans for my three months here in Istanbul/Nişantaşı, and so far so good! 

My days started with introductions about the general work which subsequently will lead me gradually to more independent work. I will participate in the daily work with both shared and own communication with customers and factories. My skills of pattern making and my artistic eye, will also be a part of my work, which suits me perfect.

My posts/blog will attract you who are interested in, what I call it, the real world of textile. I hope I can give you a little touch of everything, when it comes to apparel-production. Pls, feel free to ask questions if something is unclear.

Enjoy!
Camilla Doverhag